The first day of Lisbon Fashion Week started with SANGUE NOVO - a fashion show of young designers selected to this year’s edition. 9 designers had to present a small collection of 10 outfits, based on their vision for AW16/17 season which would have a chance winning a permanent place to showcase future collections at ModaLisboa and sell at ComCor - Lisbon’s well known concept store. The other lucky one would be selected to represent Portugal in the next edition of FashionClash - held in June, in Maastricht.
The prevailing trends among Sangue Novo designers were relevant to their own generation - young, urban, cool with a touch of glitter and tailoring here ant there. Fur and different shades of denim fabric, oversized, baggy silhouettes that made an appearance in almost every collection suggesting to erase the line between the differences of male and female clothing. The never ending search of an identity is present in various ways - from concept of “Hunt” to transparency through giant eyelets. Here is a glimpse at each of the collections:
"BRASIL NOT REVISITED" by Tiago Loureiro
It was the first collection that walked Patio Da Gale’s runway and I have to say - this one was probably my favourite among Sangue Novo designers. Not really because of particular pieces that could land in my closet, but rather for the comprehensible bond between the collection and it’s inspiration source. Brasil Not Revisited was based on the history, architecture, modernist movement and tribal heritage of former Portugal’s colony and all of that has strong reflection in fabric choice, textures, prints and construction. The silhouettes and colour blocking made reference to Mendes da Rocha’s aesthetics and last three models left me no doubt that their outfits were inspired by the São Paulo museum of art by Lina Bo Bardi.
"CLUB SKA 67"
For AW16/17, David presented an interpretation of two urban cultures: Skinhead and another movement form 70’s London. He explores the similarity between female and male clothing of that period, extremely relevant to present fashion tendencies, creating clothes that could be worn by both genders. Sharp tailoring paired with relaxed, oversized, baggy style, decorated with lines in primary colours that were inspired by the London musical culture of this decade, having exceptional bond with the aesthetics of well known - “The Who”.
This collection was selected by the direction of Dutch fashion festival FashionClash to represent Portugal in the next edition, in June.
|| TÂNIA NICOLE
Inspired by the British artist Alex Chinneck, known for his architectural installations that feature optical illusions and number of upside-down shops in London. I guess his famous House Number 40, which was built entirely out of wax bricks that will slowly melt over the course of summers gave one of those bricks to be a starting point of Tânia’s collection. From material properties to appropriate attire for construction process - it all reflects in the choice of denim as main fabric, different shades of blue to give an illusion of melting and appearance of guernsey looking jerseys as a touch of something truly British.
|| CAROLINA MACHADO
Cropped pants, 70’s silhouette, a palette of earthy colours and giant eyelets - imperative element of the collection that refers to clarity and transparency of self-being. There was a sense of masculinity in shapes, but still sensual, still very feminine overall. The inspiration came from psychedelic and surrealist work by the director René Laloux: "La Planète Sauvage", 1973 and changing shapes of its characters called “Draggs”.
|| RÚBEN DAMÁSIO
“Rumspringa” means “wander around” and this collection illustrates the time when young Amish break away from the community and move to a bigger city. It is the time when your background values clashes with modern environment and you find your place somewhere in between, trying to be comfortable in both. Cropped pants, comfy jumper and wide flat brim hat needs only a straw in ones mouth and it would find it’s place right in the middle of the field with a romantic backdrop, but that was not the case. I loved it how the colors changed from muted tones of black and nude into radiant yellow. I saw everyones excitement when that girl wearing a tailored pant suit walked into the room and it felt like that was on purpose - advanced styling and self-confidence played as a finale for “Breaking Amish”.
|| PATRIC DE PÁDUA
"ON THE HUNT"
It was a big day for Patric as after presenting the third time in Sangue Novo category his collection was selected by the jury and he finally secured his place in next edition of ModaLisboa where he will present a full collection. With strong identity as a designer, this season he brought his staple sportswear to a different level by presenting more complicated pieces with a strong concept that was as comprehensive as it can be. “On The Hunt” stood for the search of something that would complete the individual, for personal realisation and comfort in its own skin. There was a reference to military style and personally, I felt strong eastern European influence as that moss-green trench paired with fur hat reminded me of Russian army attire. And talking about jumpsuits under an oversized jacket or coat: pairing outerwear with increasingly popular OnePieces became a trend now - I was hoping to see something more glamorous and here it is!
|| CRISTINA REAL
It is the only collection that I liked so much from the moment that light pink dress walked in, but I could not relate to the concept. According to the press release, the inspiration is based on starting point of the trip with a curious glimpse to the future and I have to say - it takes time to interpret the reflection of that concept in garments. I didn’t really understand the message of the presentation, but I appreciated the garments on it’s own. For those who’d like to have a look at full collection and it’s press release, please click here.
|| INÊS DUVALE
Fur coats, leather pants, shirtdresses, leather jackets - all soaked in dark tones resembled the unknown: Gods, afterlife, witchcraft and superstition. The belief in things that lays somewhere in the corner of our mind, yet very present and strong, spooky. It was a menswear collection where casual intertwined with loud glamour and clever details (buckles and eyelets) and as a result brought mysterious looking men walking down the runway.
|| SARA SANTOS
It was maybe in 2011 that I saw the first work of Alexandre Farto a.k.a. “Vhils” - portuguese street artist, carved in the walls of Fábrica Braço de Prata - I just didn’t know that this kind of art was born here, in Portugal. Sara took works by "Vhils" as a point of reference for her collection where exploring the material by layers that would be removed, constructed and deconstructed until it gains a new pure form. Models walked in wearing different shades of denim with print details reflecting the art of "Vhils".
Full galleries of Sangue Novo collections can be found HERE.